🏍️ How to Get the Best Deal From a Motorcycle Dealer

So… you’ve finally convinced your other half that they will benefit enormously from the joy created by you buying a new motorcycle.

A few glasses of wine, a couple of “life’s too short” speeches, and here we are. Nice work. That’s half the battle.

Now comes the bit that can be exciting, infuriating, and expensive in equal measure: dealing with dealers.

This isn’t a dry, legal guide. It’s years of personal and professional experience from the sharp end of showrooms, told as honestly as possible so you don’t get stitched up or waste your time.

---

🧭 First Things First: Know What (and Who) You’re Dealing With

Before you rock up and get hypnotised by shiny paint and LED headlights, it helps to understand the different types of dealerships you’ll meet in the wild. Because who you buy from affects everything that happens after you ride out the door.

🏢 Big-Group Main Dealers

Picture the massive glass-fronted showrooms, several franchises under one roof, a café, branded hoodies, giant TV screens.

These places are usually cash rich but target obsessed. The manufacturers set aggressive quarterly targets, so bikes are often on 180-day payment terms. That means, as the clock ticks down, they’d rather sell a bike at cost than actually have to pay for it and watch it collect dust.

You’ll be funnelled through a fairly formulaic process: bike → accessories → finance → warranty → service plan. Sales staff are trained and incentivised to sell the full package, not just the bike.

Part-exchange is usually done on a system like CAP. Sometimes that works in your favour, sometimes it doesn’t, but it’s rarely flexible without a bit of pushing.

Why bother with them? Because those big flashy buildings usually come with:

• big demo fleets,

• lots of bikes in stock,

• decent turnaround times,

• and multiple finance options.

  
  

If you want choice and convenience, this is where you get it.

🏡 Family-Owned Main Dealers

Same franchise signage, different vibe.

These are the places where the owner still wanders around the showroom, knows half the customers by name, and actually reads the Google reviews.

They still have targets and manufacturer pressure, but they don’t have the deep pockets of the big groups. They can’t just throw huge discounts at everything, so they rely a lot more on loyalty and aftersales. When something goes wrong, these are the people most likely to fight your corner.

That said, some family businesses haven’t invested in modern showrooms or systems for years. You can walk in and feel like you’ve stepped back to 1998. Always worth a visit before you commit – you want old-school values, not old-school standards.

🎨 Boutique / Quirky Multi-Brand Dealers

Then there are the “boutique” dealers: modern, social-media savvy outfits with cool showrooms and a random mix of brands, often including Chinese or more unusual machines.

They usually have:

• proper websites,

• nicely presented bikes,

• a good demo fleet (because the bikes are less known),

• and staff who really know the product – they have to, or nobody would buy it.

  
  

They live in the real world when it comes to part-ex values and haggling. They don’t have manufacturer bonus cheques cushioning everything, so it’s all about stock turn: buy, prep, sell, repeat.

The risk? They’re more vulnerable to changes in law, economy and season. If you’re buying from a small, newer business, pay the deposit on a credit card – just in case they disappear in a puff of admin one day.

🏭 Used Bike Supermarkets

You’ve seen them: aircraft hangars full of bikes, endless rows from pristine to basically farm equipment with a number plate.

These operations buy bikes in bulk using online algorithms. They hoover up bargains from distress sellers, add small margins, and rely on volume.

The staff? Often on low wages and not always hardcore bike people. They’re there to process units, not talk about fork internals and tyre profiles.

Bikes are frequently:

• lightly prepped,

• minimally inspected,

• given the shortest PDI known to man.

  
  

If it hasn’t broken within 50 miles, you’ve probably won.

They’re also very focused on finance – usually via their own in-house company, with rates that aren’t always the best. You’ll want to check your own funding options before signing anything.

Great if you know exactly what you’re looking at. Terrible if you don’t.

🧱 Independent Used Dealers (100+ Bikes)

These exploded after Covid. Large yards or warehouses with 100–200 bikes, usually privately owned.

The approach is simple: low overheads, buy cheap, prep to a decent standard, sell quickly.

Don’t expect long chats about clothing, extended warranties and custom builds. You’re there to find the bike, buy the bike, go home. Some people absolutely love that – no faff.

Workshops may be limited, so a lot of them lean on third-party warranties. Always – and I mean always – read the inclusions and exclusions. Future you will be grateful.

🔁 SOR (Sale or Return) Dealers

These guys don’t own the bikes; they sell them on behalf of the current owner.

From the seller’s perspective, they’ll usually get more than a part-exchange. From yours, it means:

• limited haggling (the seller already wants “more than PX”),

• the dealer acting as middle-man,

• and the same legal obligations for warranty as with any used bike.

  
  

You’ll often find rarer or more specialist stuff being sold on SOR, which can be great – just don’t go in expecting half the price and a free set of panniers thrown in.

🧰 “Fred in the Shed”

You know the sort: small shop, maybe on an industrial estate, a few rows of bikes, usually run by one or two enthusiasts.

No glitz, no branded cappuccino machines.

But the person you’re talking to often knows everything about every bike on the floor, because they bought it, prepped it, and probably rode it.

They might offer finance, maybe delivery, usually a third-party warranty. They live and die on the margin in the metal. They won’t offer top PX prices and will quietly prefer BACS or cash.

The upside? You’re dealing with the decision-maker. Answers are instant. Many bikes are ready to ride away the same day.

🧑‍🌾 “Dave Bikes” – The Garden Trader

Finally, there’s Dave.

Dave sells a few bikes from his garden or lock-up. Enough to be a trader in reality, but everything about the sale feels “private”.

They’ll want cash, PayPal or a quick card payment. The “warranty” may as well be printed on bread.

Some are genuine and honest. Some… aren’t. Approach with low expectations and maximum caution.

😤 A Quick Rant About Customer Service

One of the things that really winds me up about the bike trade is just how bad the customer service can be. I’ve walked into showrooms with £15k+ to spend, stood there for thirty minutes, and not one person has said hello. Not even eye contact. Nothing.

These days, if that happens, I’ll happily go somewhere else and pay more for the same bike just to deal with someone who actually gives a toss. Because when things go wrong – and with bikes, they sometimes do – those are the people who will help you out.

This whole game is about long-term relationships, not just today’s sale.

Rant over. Let’s buy a bike.

🧪 Demos: Try Before You Cry

You’ve got an idea of the bike you want. Great. Now ride it.

I can’t tell you how many riders I’ve seen lose 20% in six months because they bought blind and then realised the riding position, throttle response or wind protection didn’t suit them at all.

Call First, Don’t Just Turn Up

Most dealers have strict demo rules. A typical set looks like:

• Minimum 1 year’s experience on A2 / full A licence

• Less than 8 points on your licence

• £1000 insurance excess

• Max 1-hour ride

• No pillions, no 125cc learners on CBT

• No “my mate will just follow me on his”

• Definitely no off-roading the demo Africa Twin

  
  

Many bikes have trackers. By all means give it some beans – you’re not test-riding a Panigale V4 to trundle at 30mph all day – but don’t be that person trying to impress Instagram by wheelieing past the dealership windows.

Ask for a Proper Ride

Cities are terrible for test rides. If the dealer is 20 minutes from any decent roads and you get a 45-minute slot, you’ll spend most of it in traffic.

Ask (politely) for a longer ride and be prepared to pay for the fuel. Plenty of dealers will say yes if you come across as serious rather than “out for a jolly”.

Bring your licence, NI number or a DVLA check code – they’ll want to run a licence check regardless.

🚦 The Demo Handover

Modern dashboards can look like the cockpit of a 737.

Before you set off, get the basics:

• What riding modes does it have?

• How do you change them on the move?

• Are there any quirks with traction control, quickshifter, suspension, or cruise?

• How do you reset trips, fuel range, etc.?

  
  

If you use a Quadlock or similar, fit it. Getting lost in Birmingham and never leaving second gear is not a meaningful test ride.

When you get back, ask questions about anything weird that happened: “Why did that light flash?” “Why did the quickshifter refuse third gear?”

And for the love of all things two-wheeled, remember to take your licence back. The pile of licences left at dealerships would shock you.

💬 The Chat: When the Buzz Wears Off

You roll back in, heart rate slightly elevated, and the sales exec appears.

They’ll want to qualify you and get a feel for whether you’re serious. Not because they hate talking to people, but because they don’t have time to hear about every roundabout apex you nailed if you were never going to buy a bike anyway.

Don’t take it personally. It’s just the job.

If you’re interested, say so. If you’re not, say that too. Clarity is good for everyone.

🎨 Getting the Spec Right

You can’t agree a price until you know exactly what you’re buying.

Think about:

• Colour

• Trim level

• Must-have accessories (heated grips, luggage, crash protection, etc.)

• Whether you’re happy with what’s in stock or willing to wait

  
  

Sometimes this is where the first bit of subtle leverage appears.

If the showroom bike isn’t your ideal colour, keep your cards close. A bike that’s already on the floor and due to be invoiced in 20 days is a lot more negotiable than something you’ve pre-ordered for three months’ time.

Ask about lead times. Pre-orders for brand-new models can take months. If you order one, don’t ring every three days for an update – it won’t make it arrive faster, and it will absolutely annoy the people you’re going to need later.

🧩 Accessories, OTR and All the Sneaky Bits

Accessories have chunky margins, so manufacturers bundle them into “packs” that often work out cheaper than buying individually – and they’re less likely to be delayed by back-orders.

Dealers would almost always rather discount accessories than the bike itself, so it’s a useful area to negotiate in.

Always confirm:

• OTR (on the road) costs are included,

• you’re getting 12 months tax,

• and there are no “admin fees” sneaking in.

  
  

💷 Talking Money Without Being a Muppet

Once the sales person has put everything into the system, you’ll get the first price. It will, of course, be full RRP on everything. You don’t get discounts at Tesco self-checkout, do you?

Here’s how to keep control:

1. Get a full printout of the deal so you can see every number.

2. Go for a wander – grab a coffee, stroll the showroom, nip to the loo.

3. Jump on your phone and look up like-for-like examples of that bike on Autotrader. Screenshot the cheapest realistic one.

Now you’ve got context.

If there’s a bike in Glasgow £200 cheaper than the one in Southampton, the dealer knows you won’t burn £300 in fuel and a full day of your life to save £200. Use common sense. This is about fair play, not trying to “win”.

Talk money, but remember: the dealer is a business. You’re not trying to ruin their month; you’re trying to find a figure that works for both of you.

🔁 Part-Exchange: Playing the Numbers

Part-ex is where many deals get messy.

Before you go:

• Get a finance settlement letter if there’s any outstanding credit

• Sort your private plate (put it on retention if you’re keeping it)

• Find your V5 or start the process to replace it

• Clean the bike properly

• Remove tatty stickers and unwanted accessories

  
  

Some dealers use CAP, which gives three values: poor, average and excellent. The difference between “ropey” and “minter” can be 5–10%, so presenting the bike well really matters.

Others work backwards from the likely retail price.Big dealers will want £1200–£1400 margin in a used bike; smaller ones might work on £800–£1000. Don’t forget VAT comes out of that, plus prep, repairs and warranty risk.

The first PX price will be a lowball. Always. That’s just how negotiations start. Don’t fall off your chair or storm out – it’s part of the dance.

What you really care about is the cost to change:

New bike price – your PX value – your finance settlement = what you still need to find.

That’s the number to focus on.

🎯 Negotiation Tactics That Actually Work

1. Aim at the Cost to Change

If your cost to change is £5000, say you’d be happy at £4500.

How they find that £500 – more for your PX, discount on the bike, free accessories, free labour – is their problem. You just care about the final number.

2. Use Real Market Data for PX

On Autotrader, filter properly:

• Same make and model

• Very similar year and mileage

• Dealers only

• Add trim keywords (SE, TE, SP etc.)

  
  

Find the range of sale prices for bikes like yours. Work backwards using the sort of margins we’ve talked about, and you’ll have a realistic idea of what’s achievable.

Use that calmly. No shouting, no threats to “go elsewhere” every five minutes. Good sales execs respond far better to respectful, informed customers.

3. Don’t Forget the “Titbits”

If the price is stuck, ask about:

• Free delivery

• First service discounted or included

• Service plans

• Extended warranty

• Free fitting for accessories

  
  

Sometimes they genuinely can’t move the headline price, but they can sweeten the deal.

And remember: sometimes it just doesn’t feel right. If the vibe’s off, walk away. The relationship lasts longer than the buzz of a new bike.

💳 Paying for It Without Regretting It

Once you’ve agreed the deal, you need to decide how you’re paying.

• Cash: Some dealers hate it (bank charges, security). If you do pay cash, put the deposit on a credit card so you have some protection if the dealer collapses.

• Debit card / BACS: Safe and common. Again, credit card for the deposit is wise.

• Credit card: Protective but fees are higher for the dealer, so not all of them will take larger amounts. Don’t rely on AMEX.

• Finance: Manufacturer offers, bank loans, or third-party lenders.

  
  

Watch for “rate for risk” – where you’re quoted one figure, then the rate quietly jumps after the credit check because you’re deemed higher risk. Always ask how the rate is calculated before they run an application.

Dealers must be FCA regulated for finance, and they must declare any commission they receive. If you feel pushed into finance, rather than offered it as an option, walk away.

🕒 When to Hand Over Your PX

If the new bike is a long way off, some dealers will want your PX immediately. That can leave you without a bike and without much leverage.

Unless there’s a really good reason, a sensible cash deposit is usually enough.

If you do leave the bike, ask about an SOR-style agreement where ownership technically stays with you until it’s sold or the new bike arrives.

Whatever you do, don’t bang another 2000 miles on your PX and expect the valuation to stay the same.

🔑 Handover Day: What Actually Matters

I’ve seen handovers where the sales person chucks the keys across the desk and says “there you go”, and others where they talk the customer into a coma for an hour.

The sweet spot is somewhere in the middle.

Make sure you understand:

• Any key electronic systems and modes

• How to open the fuel cap and remove the seat

• How to operate and remove any luggage

• Warranty period, what’s covered, what’s not

• Breakdown cover and who to call

• When and where the first service is due (and rough cost)

• Ongoing service intervals

  
  

You should leave with: two keys, owner’s manual, PDI paperwork, and a clear sense that everything is legit and above board.

Your part-ex will be signed into trade; any unused tax gets refunded to you by DVLA later. Your new V5 usually arrives within a couple of weeks.

🛡️ Insurance: Don’t Overcomplicate It

You’re responsible for your own insurance.

Often the dealer will allocate a reg number before collection, but the bike isn’t actually registered until the day you ride away, so comparison sites may not show it yet.

Use the make and model to get your quote. Once you’ve chosen a provider, ring them, give them the reg when you have it, and start the policy from the collection date.

Simples.

🎉 The Whole Experience

Buying a bike should be fun. You’re not shopping for a washing machine; you’re buying something that genuinely changes your day-to-day happiness.

Expect decent service, but manage your expectations depending on the kind of dealer you’re dealing with. If the buying process feels like pulling teeth, imagine how warranty claims and future work are going to feel.

The best relationships are the ones where both sides feel like they’ve walked away with a fair deal.

Work with the sales exec, not against them. Remember they’re just people, doing a job, usually under pressure from somewhere above them.

Get the right bike, from the right dealer, on the right terms – and every time you thumb the starter, you’ll know you did it properly.