“What’s your best price?”And why you should never ask a dealer this question
- Ben Grayson
- Jan 13
- 5 min read
I’ve been on both sides of the counter — as a buyer and as a seller — and I’ve written before about how to approach a dealer in a way that’s respectful and most likely to get you a fair deal.
A big part of that is identifying what kind of dealer you’re talking to, so you can tailor your approach.
But before we go any further, there are two things you should never open with:
“What’s the best price on…?”
“Are there any deals on…?”
Let’s start with the big one.
Why “What’s your best price?” is the wrong opener
The moment you ask this, there’s a good chance you’ve already pissed the salesperson off.
Dealers know a thing or two about pricing bikes. They also — inconveniently for some buyers — need to make money.
For the most part, a dealer prices a bike in one of two ways:
1. New bikes
There’s an RRP
Most dealers advertise at RRP, often including on-the-road fees(not all include fees — that’s a separate rant)
2. Motivated stock
Old stock, invoiced stock, or bikes they want gone
These get labelled “Manager’s Special”, “Priced to Sell”, etc
Translation: “We need this off the floor”
Either way, that advertised price is one the dealer believes is fair and leaves them a few quid. If you want to know how much a dealer actually makes, read my other blog — you’ll be shocked.
What happens when you ask it anyway?
You’ve now put the salesperson in a difficult position. They’ll usually do one of four things:
Dig their heels in out of spite
Throw a random number at you
Ask if you’ve had quotes elsewhere
Start qualifying you
Let’s break those down.
1. Digging their heels in
You wouldn’t walk into Tesco and try to negotiate with the cashier. The bike trade is under huge financial pressure. Dealers are closing weekly. Margins are thin. That question can feel personal — even if it shouldn’t. A professional salesperson should leave emotion at the door… but they’re still human.
2. The random number (this screws you)
If they pick a number out of thin air, you’re already on the back foot.Why on earth would that be their best price? It won’t be.
3. “Have you had quotes elsewhere?”
This is actually your opportunity — if you’ve done your homework.
Price matching works only if it’s genuine and like-for-like.
Dealers will ask for proof
Screenshots, emails, proper quotes
No proof = no discount
And don’t waste everyone’s time:
A new bike will not match a 6-month pre-reg
Mileage, spec, colour, history all matter
Used bike prices change month to month. Even good dealers miss residual drops. Showing genuine evidence is one of the best ways to secure a reduction without pissing anyone off.
4. Qualification (the good salespeople)
The best sales execs will qualify you properly before talking numbers.
They’ll ask:
When are you looking to buy?
How are you paying? (Cash, finance, PCP, etc.)
Is there a part-exchange?
What’s the intended use?
That leads into:
Accessories
Service plans
Extended warranty
Delivery
These things carry far more margin than the bike itself. Dealers average around 30% on accessories, and delivery is often handled in-house. That means value can be added without bleeding cash. This is how grown-up negotiation actually works.
Why “Are there any deals on…?” is just as bad
I always laugh at this one.
It’s very generational.
All you’ll usually get from a franchise dealer is:
A list of finance rates
Deposit contributions
Maybe a free pen if you’re lucky
And this approach is useless on used bikes.
So… can you negotiate?
Fuck yes — absolutely.
You can negotiate.
You just need to do it properly.
(Read my other blog: Unrealistic expectations)
What you should say instead
Here’s how to open a serious buying conversation.
Prerequisites
You’re genuinely ready to buy (subject to availability)
You know how you’re paying
You know exactly what you want (within reason)
New bike example: establishing a baseline
Before you ask for a deal, establish the facts.
“I’m currently in the market for a red 2026 Fireblade with X, Y and Z fitted. I have a 2023 R1 with [full, honest description] and my settlement figure is £X. Can you provide a cost to change along with any incentives to purchase with yourselves?”
This tells the salesperson:
You’re ready
You’re informed
This isn’t your first rodeo
Send this to three dealers and give them 24 hours.
If they don’t reply — move on.Poor initial comms usually equals poor aftersales when something goes wrong.
Comparing the quotes
Now you’re looking at the bigger picture, not just price.
Example:
Dealer ABest comms and service£3,650 to change£150 deliveryBike in stock
Dealer BClosest dealer£3,500 to changeFree delivery2-week lead time
Dealer CCheapest£3,250 to changeFree deliveryBike in stockHard work to deal with
Reading between the lines
Dealer A Quoted by the book. Good comms. Knowledgeable. Likely consistent after the sale.
Dealer B Busy, distracted, a bit sloppy. Probably discounting to make you wait.
Dealer C Big group. Big stock. Target-driven. Probably making nothing on the bike but registering it for bonuses. Once you buy, you’ll never hear from them again.
What do we actually want?
If price is everything, gamble on Dealer C and accept the risk.
But what we really want is:
Dealer C money out of Dealer A.
Take Dealer C’s quote and visit Dealer A.
Test ride. Coffee. Face to face.
You’re instantly more “real” to a salesperson when you turn up.
Then say:
“Ben, I want to buy from you, but there’s a £550 gap I can’t ignore. What can we do to get this done today?”
That lands.
You’ve shown intent. You’ve made it easy for them to justify pushing internally.
The three outcomes
Worst case:“Sorry — we want to retain margin, but here’s a sweetener.”
Middle ground:“Let me speak to the sales manager.”Comes back close, but not quite there.
Result:“We can match it.”
What you do next is your call.
Personally, I believe long-term relationships with good dealers pay dividends — service, goodwill, and support matter far more than saving £200 today.
Final thought
Negotiation isn’t about being aggressive.
It’s about reducing friction, showing intent, and letting the dealer make money while you get value.
Just don’t open with:
“What’s your best price?”
Because nine times out of ten, the price you get back isn’t the best price.
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